Router Table Construction

This was a multi day project, but I thought I would consolidate my activities into one entry in case anybody out there wanted to replicate my work. It should be easier to follow this way.

Step 1 - Laminate the top. I began with 2 pieces of 1/2" MDF for the top. I roughed them to size and then glued them together to create a 1" thick top.

Step 2 - Add cutouts for table bolts. I realized that my 1" thick top would be too thick to accomodate bolts to my table saw top and fence rails. The problem I face is the mounting holes in the sawtop and rails are only ~5/8" from the surface of the sawtable. When the 1" thick top is installed flush with the sawtop, the mounting holes would be covered.

To fix this I just marked the spots on the torsion box where the bolts will come through and I routed out recesses. Now when the sides of the torsion box are installed, there will be a cavity behind them into which the bolts can go.


Step 3 - Torsion Box Sides. The 1" thick top is probably not strong enough to support the weight of the router over time, so I am adding structural members to the sides and to the 'field' of the box to help carry the load. Here the sides have been glued and finish nailed into place.

Step 4 - Cut recess for router, miter corners. I am installing a Triton plunge router into my tabletop. It will be a permanent fixture. I decided on this particular model because it is easily adjustable from BOTH above AND below the table. I find that I make adjustments from below the table about half the time because I need to get a 'router bit's-eye view' of the setup. It is easier to reach below the table to make this adjustment than to mess with a crank above the table when you are bent over looking at the bit.

The Triton also has a single wrench, auto locking arbor that eliminates the need for a large 'bit change access' cutout in the tabletop. I plan to only have a 1 1/4" opening for my router bits. In order for this to work with my table, I need to cut a recess for the router so that it can extend the arbor far enough above the tabletop to get a wrench on it.

I move around the table a lot when routing so I wanted to trim the corners a bit so I could have easier access to the bit from all angles. I dropped the torsion box onto my mitering sled and simply cut the corners off. I then added small sides to the void.

Step 5 - Laminate Top. No real explination necessary - I found the smoothest piece of scrap Formica at my local cabinetshop and they gave it to me for free. Luckily it was off white.

Step 6 - Install router, add more supports, mount in table. After laminating the top, I drilled the mounting holes and a 1 1/4" hole for the bits to come through. I also drilled a hole for the crank you use to adjust bit height from above the table.

Advice for those of you building one of these yourself: put some thought into the orientation of the tool under the table before you drill your holes. I decided to mount the router so that the hole for above the table adjustment in directly across the bit opening from the fence. This allows adjustment from above the table with the fence set in most cases. Also, for a right-handed person, it aligns the below-table adjustment levers and knobs perfectly for easy access.

Why i built my table this way:

• I didnt have room for a dedicated router table in my shop
• My old table used a Rockler lift and my workpieces were constantly catching on a slightly proud edge somewhere - where the plate met the tabletop, where the lift was screwed to the plate, on the insert - I wanted this table to have as few possibilities for hang up as possible.
• I have a bigger worksurface than I would have with a dedicated router table.